Which wire is best, in your opinion?

[bostjan]

Having some issues with the cheap wires I bought for guitar wiring. Looking for advice on what to try next.

 

[NickS]

Cloth push-back wire is the best I've used. It's really easy to work with, holds it shape well (as in won't immediately want to spring back off the lug you're trying to solder to, or whatever), and the "push-back" feature versus having to strip the wire every time is really nice. And it's solid core, which I much prefer vs stranded wire.

 

[tedtan]

I’d go with copper unless you want to spring for silver or gold.

What kind of problems are we talking about? I tend to like vintage style like these options:

https://www.stewmac.com/electronics/components-and-parts/wires/shielded-push-back-wire---16-inches

or

https://www.stewmac.com/electronics/components-and-parts/wires/single-coil-hookup-wires---12-inches

Both are available in larger rolls.

 

[odibrom]

I like single core wires for guitar wiring, they stay put easily either before and after soldering, and are easy to fit in the cavities. In my experience, multi core wires are more prone to break and spring back way more. I bought a pack of multi colored insulation wires a few years back and still have a bunch. Colors are good to keep track of what one's doing, electricity couldn't care less.

 

[Crash Dandicoot]

22AWG, cloth covered, solid core. Traditional at this point but I love it from a technician's point of view. Very easy to work with and shape, no stripping involved and has a timeless look, IMO. Wiring is possibly my favorite part of guitar servicing to really go hard on. Clean and well routed wiring is pure bliss. Like, I have a guitar wiring porn inspiration folder.

 

[MaxOfMetal]

Another vote for solid core.

 

[Lemonbaby]

Having some issues with the cheap wires I bought for guitar wiring. Looking for advice on what to try next.

You asked for it. Expensive wires.

 

[bostjan]

I’d go with copper unless you want to spring for silver or gold.

What kind of problems are we talking about? I tend to like vintage style like these options:

https://www.stewmac.com/electronics/components-and-parts/wires/shielded-push-back-wire---16-inches

or

https://www.stewmac.com/electronics/components-and-parts/wires/single-coil-hookup-wires---12-inches

Both are available in larger rolls.

Ooh, shielded and pre-tinned. I think that's what I'm looking for!

Well, I got some wire, I thought was going to be okay, but it's not pre-tinned, and the solid conductor was giving me some fits the other day tinning the end. I think I might have went overboard with the gauge, though (#18). I tried switching up my soldering iron, and I'm making it work, but it just was causing me a headache with every step taking 3x longer than usual. I hadn't tried stranded wire, since I don't typically prefer it, but I had seen it used in guitars before. It sounds like that's not the way to go.

I think I'll give the first one a try and go from there.

 

[tedtan]

I’m happy with the 22 gauge, solid core, pre-tinned wire - shielded (typically humbuckers) or unshielded (typically single coils), depending on application.


Edit: if you look around, you can probably find a better price than the StewMac wire I linked to.

 

[bostjan]

I’m happy with the 22 gauge, solid core, pre-tinned wire - shielded (typically humbuckers) or unshielded (typically single coils), depending on application.


Edit: if you look around, you can probably find a better price than the StewMac wire I linked to.

Thanks, yeah, I already found the same wire for $30/spool and already ordered one (I think I got the last spool, though )

PS - what happened to the eek emoticon? The old one was way better.

 

[RevDrucifer]

As long as you guys don’t tell that Nightfly dude, I can hook ya’ll up with some adrenachrome wire.

 

[odibrom]

What solder are you using? I've tried Silver based ones (? Lead free) and Lead based ones. The first are a pain to use, they take way longer to melt at the iron and consequently force me to use more heat, which then leads to the possibility of ruining components.

For sporadic use, lead solder works fine for me... not advisable for daily use due to its vapors containing lead obviously...

 

[technomancer]

Another vote for the vintage-style cloth stuff. I also like Tefzel stranded that I use in amp builds... stranded so it doesn't break as easily and it stays in place like solid core and is thin because of the insulation. It's available in various colors and gauges. Tefzel also doesn't burn / melt if that is an issue for you (shouldn't happen with proper soldering technique anyways, but...)

 

[tedtan]

What solder are you using? I've tried Silver based ones (? Lead free) and Lead based ones. The first are a pain to use, they take way longer to melt at the iron and consequently force me to use more heat, which then leads to the possibility of ruining components.

For sporadic use, lead solder works fine for me... not advisable for daily use due to its vapors containing lead obviously...

I still use leaded solder because 1) it works better, and 2) I don’t solder often enough to be concerned with lead poisoning.

But like you say, if you solder regularly, the lead free is the safer option.

 

[Asdrael]

Just make sure you solder like the guys on the Amazon solder station stock pics:

 

[bostjan]

Oh, I've tried the lead-free stuff (at work, we had some stuff that needed to withstand just a little more temperature than regular lead-tin solder was rated) and it is a nightmare. I grew up drinking tap water from lead pipes, around cars that still used ethyl lead fuel, playing with voltron toys that had lead paint. I probably have more lead in my body than Tupac. :/ I think I'll stick with lead solder.

 

[Neon_Knight_]

I’d go with copper unless you want to spring for silver or gold.

My hi-fi speaker cables are silver. Makes a noticeable difference!

 

[MetalDestroyer]

I'm pretty sure there's no lead in leaded solder fumes, but that doesn't mean you should be breathing it anyway. Most of the lead contamination of leaded solder is from improperly discarded electronics that were built with leaded solder. I use leaded because I bought a roll years ago and I make sure I wash my hands afterwards. Honestly there isn't that much difference between leaded and lead-free if you're using a decent iron, but most people aren't using decent irons. Get an iron that has temp control, enough wattage to keep the tip at the correct temp, and contains a good controller and you'll find that all solder melts at 350c.

As far as wire goes, cloth pushback is nice for guitar and amp work. I actually generally prefer stranded for guitars as it's easier to navigate within a cavity, but solid is good if you just want to bend and forget.

 

[youngthrasher9]

Another vote for pre-tinned push back. It’s insane the ease of use vs normal wire.

 

[odibrom]

I'm pretty sure there's no lead in leaded solder fumes, but that doesn't mean you should be breathing it anyway. Most of the lead contamination of leaded solder is from improperly discarded electronics that were built with leaded solder. I use leaded because I bought a roll years ago and I make sure I wash my hands afterwards. Honestly there isn't that much difference between leaded and lead-free if you're using a decent iron, but most people aren't using decent irons. Get an iron that has temp control, enough wattage to keep the tip at the correct temp, and contains a good controller and you'll find that all solder melts at 350c.

As far as wire goes, cloth pushback is nice for guitar and amp work. I actually generally prefer stranded for guitars as it's easier to navigate within a cavity, but solid is good if you just want to bend and forget.

I found that unleaded solder (at least the one I have here) needs higher temperature and colds out faster, almost instantly as I remove the iron... and has a strange feel to grip to the soldering parts. It's my experience at least, I found it way harder to use than leaded solder, but I'm no pro at this and seldom do my guitars circuits...