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Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by HaMMerHeD, Mar 10, 2018.
Nice man! The planning for the contours is looking like it’s going to work out awesome!
I placed the bridge drilled for hardware today.
And looks good doing it, I think.
I started working on profiling the neck tonight.
Then it got dark (and cold) and I had to stop about halfway through. It's coming along well. You can see by the maple that it's a bit lumpy around the middle bits, so I'll get all that trued up tomorrow. I don't generally want it to be arrow straight. I prefer a more parabolic shape.
It's cold and rainy today, and so since my neck carving buck necessarily protrudes out my garage door, I didn't proceed with the neck today.
Instead, I worked on the body.
My primary material-removing tool is this big 17" farrier's rasp:
The coarse side (shown above) removes material faster than anything else I've tried, including that damned Shinto rasp. The other side produces a much nicer surface, but still needs some work.
Once I get it in the rough shape I want, I switch to my StewMac dragon rasps.
They produce a pretty good finish, but not really sanding/scraping ready. After the dragon rasp, I switch to a bastard file, which is ready for finessing with sanding and scraping.
But that's for another day. I'm tired.
So here is how it sits today:
Killer, I'm a huge fan of bevels all the way around. Looking great.
Well, I went out and did some work on the neck anyway.
You can just see the where the scarf joint is glued...
It's lined up pretty OK though, I think.
Damn dude thats pretty dead on
That's one clean glue joint!
Dam Ash looks so cool when carved and beveled & this is going to look killer with a ceruse finish.
Needed a new RO sander, so I grabbed this variable speed Bosch.
I love how the grain runs opposite on the left and right. Sort of a radial symmetry type of thing. Very cool.
Thanks. It was definitely a deliberate choice. With ash, I prefer those sinusoidal grain lines over the more common M or W orientation.
So I became worried about the structural integrity of my control cavity.
The top over the cavity is about 5mm thick, and the edges are heavily beveled. So I worried that there wasn't much meat in the corners, so I took a cue from acoustic guitar builders and made some kerfing.
Kerfing is used inside acoustic guitars to provide extra gluing surface area--and therefore some strength--at the edges where the top and back glue onto the sides.
So I made some out of some swamp ash cutoffs:
And I'm gluing it in.
It won't go all the way around, and I'm ignoring the areas with the screw 'pillars'. But I hope this will help encourage it to be strong.
That's just super cool. A nod to traditional luthiery. Love it.
And that's done.
Tomorrow I hope to finish profiling the body and radius/fret the fretboard.
I only had about 90 min to work today, so I didn't get as much done as I wanted, but...I made some progress.
The bass-side (upper) edge is exactly the proportion I wanted.
Once I round it over and smooth it out, it'll be perfect.
Nice scarf joint!
Dang, man. You just solved for an issue I'm having with a build. It has a wenge top and when I was routing the control cavity I accidentally went too close to the top, now there's an area about 1/32" thick and I was puzzling over how to address it. Combined with my original idea, this will be a perfect solution.
Just read through this thread - wow, really looking forward to seeing this one once it's complete. That upper horn looks super mean by the way