Help restoring rg7620 (first 7 string)

[WhiteNoise]

Hi guys, so as the tittle says I would really appreciate some orientation and help about how to go with the restoration of this guitar. I'm absolutely in love with it and I don't think I could have picked a better first 7s.

Is a 2002 7620, that I got last year trading an Ibanez dn500 + 350usd (Honestly, really good deal for my country, Chile). It has several modifications by the first owner.
- Edge Pro 7
- Seymour Duncan Blackouts Jeff Loomis
- Multicolor black sparkle paint job (not that well done)
Between school and work I wasn't able to play it until December, and, as expected the guitar needed a setup so I sent it to my tech. He did some work on the neck joint and shimmed it I believe, plus worked on the slot but here is were the problems start.

He commented that the nut on the guitar was the wrong radio, and as consequence the string radius and height will be off. After checking like crazy on forums, I'm not able to make sense out of it, the 7620 has the 7 strings bottom mounted version of the Top-Lok III, and from what I searched, there is no bottom mounted guitar nut that will fit the 7620 due to the width. So how come the nut has the wrong radius? I trust the guy with my life, he is an amazing tech, but I can't figure where a nut with the wrong radius would come from. This is the main problem with the guitar right now. I have been looking like crazy for a replacement one but they are insanely expensive, specially for my college student wallet. And that is if you can find one, I have been camping eBay and Japanese marketplaces but no luck finding a decently priced one.

The other issue is that, even without using the whammy, the guitar has a hard time staying tune, which shouldn't be an issue with a locking nut. I will put it down and when I want to play it the next day it will be out of tune to the point that I need to remove the lock and tune using the headstock tuners. The guitar does not have the retainer bar (remove by the first owner), which I know helps with tuning stability but should it be that bad? Will any 7 string retainer bar work or do I need to get the original one (Which is really expensive).

Also, one of the fine tune screws on the bridge is bent, is it as easy as getting a new one and removing the old one? Or do I need to do some work on the bridge?

On the less pressing matters, I would like to repaint the guitar to a Vampire Kiss or a Cherry Fudge, if possible in some sort chameleon finish. Would it be to hard to do it myself? Have 0 experience with it.
How about pickguards? Is it hard to find one that fits? Opinions on them?

For the electronics I'm probably switching to a Nazgul/Sentient set as I'm not an active pickups guy.

Your experience and help on this would mean the world guys.

 

[odibrom]

I'm not sure about the nut having a wrong radius, I've got several Ibanez 7 stringers with LoPros and EdgePro and never felt anything wrong with them, can you detail the "problem" a bit more?

Regarding the retainer bar, it helps to keep the tuning when locking the nut, after that, it does nothing. I like to have that on all my trem loaded guitars because they came with it. You can use whatever fits, doesn't have to be an original model.

Are you familiar with floating bridges like floyd roses and Ibanez Edges (Original Edge, LoPro, EdgePro and so on)? It takes a bit of getting used to to make them stable. Try the following:
1 - unlock the nut on all strings.
2 - set the fine tuning screws at half way, with a bit more range to raise the pitch.
3 - tune each string to your desired pitch
4 - check the bridge's balance, see if it rests PARALLEL to the guitar's body. There's a small side mark which you should use to check.
5 - adjust as needed at the springs' clamp and retune
6 - PLAY the guitar for a while (nuts unlocked), to string bends, dive bombs and squeals with the trem. Retune.
7 - check for the trem's balance again and again until you're satisfied with it. Always retune to pitch
8 - lock the nuts and retune with the fine tuners.

Have you removed the neck yet and check the neck's pocket at the body and at the neck? The guitar could as well be a repainted RG1527 or a mix of both:7620 neck + 1527 body...

Do tighten all screws from the headdstock tuners to the nut (those that secure the nut in place. It doesn't look like so, ut if the trem's studs are locking type, lock them as well.

... and if you're getting rid of that paint job, do also get rid of the pickup rings...

 

[c7spheres]

1. Regarding the paint job you want I wouldn't try it yourself having no experience, especially a chameleon finish. It could cost more than the guitar to have it done by a pro, tbh.

2. That nut looks like a Floyd nut not an Ibnaez nut to me. The diffeerence in price is huge price diference cause FLoyd nuts are like $10 and they likely have a different radius too

3. The fine tuner is easy fix. Take off the plastic ring underneath the tip side of the screw under the bridge plate where it goes thrugh and it'll come right off. You'll probably want another one of those too because they break and stretch easy and aren't meant to be taken apart once attached. All that ring does is keep the tuner from coming out.

4. The bridge isn't a Lo Pro Edge, it's an Edge Pro which doesn't come on 7620's It came on 1527's and a couple other models. That shouldn't affect anything and is a great bridge too. Equal to the Lo Pro most would say. I like the Lo Pro because no plastic parts but not a big deal, plus Edge Pro parts seem easier to find too, so it should work find on this guitar.

5. The string retainer/ string tree you can use whatever but I'd try to find and origianl because they have a rounded edge and the screw holes will line up. Since this guitar was repainted and a new truss cover put on it might not fit anyways,so measuring whatever you want to put on there would be good or maybe get an origianl and orignal string truss cover as well, but then you might have a couple holes where the existing one was.

6. Floating trems can be a massive pain, but once setup well they basically don't go out of tune even with whammy use.

8 My main concern is the nut. If the holes were filled and redrilled to make it fit it could become problematic/more work. The way to make it work with the existing nut would be to shim the saddles to match the nut radius but then the fret work may not paly well with it etc. Hard to say without more measuring/investigating it. This looks like a 7620 that was parted together using a 1527 bridge and Floyd nut, which isn't really a problem other than maybe you wernen't told it sounds like. Once it's all setup and good it shoul dbe every bit as good as all original part, tbh, plus if possible I'd keep that Floyd nut because if they're way easier to findand far less expensive and every bit as strong/made of steel etc. The thing is that radiusing would require a tech that can do it. You're tech discovered the issues so that's a good thing. Sounds like they know what they're doing from what I can tell.

 

[lost_horizon]

You can modify a lock nut to be the correct radius.

By machining the V's out on the middle 5 you can get a good approximation of the correct radius. If you go too far you will need a shim underneath to raise the height a bit.

Repainting a guitar especially a spray finish or sparkle finish is all about prep. As long as you have the correct sand and prep you should be fine. You can get a respectable finish at home using just Amazon products and it is fun.

Also you may think about making the pickup holes wider for SD spacing but I'm guessing he already did that which is why they have pickup rings?

Good luck on the build. I am about to start my own RG7620 rebuild/refinish!

 

[WhiteNoise]

I'm not sure about the nut having a wrong radius, I've got several Ibanez 7 stringers with LoPros and EdgePro and never felt anything wrong with them, can you detail the "problem" a bit more?

Regarding the retainer bar, it helps to keep the tuning when locking the nut, after that, it does nothing. I like to have that on all my trem loaded guitars because they came with it. You can use whatever fits, doesn't have to be an original model.

Are you familiar with floating bridges like floyd roses and Ibanez Edges (Original Edge, LoPro, EdgePro and so on)? It takes a bit of getting used to to make them stable. Try the following:
1 - unlock the nut on all strings.
2 - set the fine tuning screws at half way, with a bit more range to raise the pitch.
3 - tune each string to your desired pitch
4 - check the bridge's balance, see if it rests PARALLEL to the guitar's body. There's a small side mark which you should use to check.
5 - adjust as needed at the springs' clamp and retune
6 - PLAY the guitar for a while (nuts unlocked), to string bends, dive bombs and squeals with the trem. Retune.
7 - check for the trem's balance again and again until you're satisfied with it. Always retune to pitch
8 - lock the nuts and retune with the fine tuners.

Have you removed the neck yet and check the neck's pocket at the body and at the neck? The guitar could as well be a repainted RG1527 or a mix of both:7620 neck + 1527 body...

Do tighten all screws from the headdstock tuners to the nut (those that secure the nut in place. It doesn't look like so, ut if the trem's studs are locking type, lock them as well.

... and if you're getting rid of that paint job, do also get rid of the pickup rings...

I do know that the neck that it is a 7620, any ways to know if the body is? About the floyds, I know how they work but normally im not the one setting them up, to be fair it was a while after it got setup that I started playing it, so it might be temperature shift or old strings. I will give it a try anyways. I'll probably try to get rid of the rings, not sure how the wood is below them because the cavity was probably expanded so I'll have to check once I get into it

 

[WhiteNoise]

1. Regarding the paint job you want I wouldn't try it yourself having no experience, especially a chameleon finish. It could cost more than the guitar to have it done by a pro, tbh.

2. That nut looks like a Floyd nut not an Ibnaez nut to me. The diffeerence in price is huge price diference cause FLoyd nuts are like $10 and they likely have a different radius too

3. The fine tuner is easy fix. Take off the plastic ring underneath the tip side of the screw under the bridge plate where it goes thrugh and it'll come right off. You'll probably want another one of those too because they break and stretch easy and aren't meant to be taken apart once attached. All that ring does is keep the tuner from coming out.

4. The bridge isn't a Lo Pro Edge, it's an Edge Pro which doesn't come on 7620's It came on 1527's and a couple other models. That shouldn't affect anything and is a great bridge too. Equal to the Lo Pro most would say. I like the Lo Pro because no plastic parts but not a big deal, plus Edge Pro parts seem easier to find too, so it should work find on this guitar.

5. The string retainer/ string tree you can use whatever but I'd try to find and origianl because they have a rounded edge and the screw holes will line up. Since this guitar was repainted and a new truss cover put on it might not fit anyways,so measuring whatever you want to put on there would be good or maybe get an origianl and orignal string truss cover as well, but then you might have a couple holes where the existing one was.

6. Floating trems can be a massive pain, but once setup well they basically don't go out of tune even with whammy use.

8 My main concern is the nut. If the holes were filled and redrilled to make it fit it could become problematic/more work. The way to make it work with the existing nut would be to shim the saddles to match the nut radius but then the fret work may not paly well with it etc. Hard to say without more measuring/investigating it. This looks like a 7620 that was parted together using a 1527 bridge and Floyd nut, which isn't really a problem other than maybe you wernen't told it sounds like. Once it's all setup and good it shoul dbe every bit as good as all original part, tbh, plus if possible I'd keep that Floyd nut because if they're way easier to findand far less expensive and every bit as strong/made of steel etc. The thing is that radiusing would require a tech that can do it. You're tech discovered the issues so that's a good thing. Sounds like they know what they're doing from what I can tell.

1.- I looked into it, custom colors probably impossible, but it might be doable with cans, I'll probably cut a piece of mdf or something in the shape of a guitar and practice a bit with it. Worst case I'll go with a solid color which should be doable.
2.- I thought it might be a floyd nut, any way to know for sure? Only 2 issues that I see is that, from what I found, floyd never made bottom mounted 7 string locking nuts. It will try measuring it soon, if it is 15", then it should be a floyd one in theory? Also I'll try to get the parts for the fine tuner. About point 4, I was made aware of it, I put it up there in the mods. Im glad it is not a downgrade in quality tho.
5.- I'll look for the original parts, anywhere else besides ibanezrules? Those prices are pretty hefty nowadays.
8.- My tech would be able to do the radius + re fret work but I would be kinda expensive probably, maybe 1/2 or 1/3 of what I paid for the guitar. Honestly, If the nut is not the right one, I'll try to look for another Ibanez 7 string nut that fits the radius, and just get my tech modify the guitar for a top mounted nut.

 

[WhiteNoise]

You can modify a lock nut to be the correct radius.

By machining the V's out on the middle 5 you can get a good approximation of the correct radius. If you go too far you will need a shim underneath to raise the height a bit.

Repainting a guitar especially a spray finish or sparkle finish is all about prep. As long as you have the correct sand and prep you should be fine. You can get a respectable finish at home using just Amazon products and it is fun.

Also you may think about making the pickup holes wider for SD spacing but I'm guessing he already did that which is why they have pickup rings?

Good luck on the build. I am about to start my own RG7620 rebuild/refinish!

Do you have more info into how to mod the nut for the radius? Also on how to get the paint job right.

I definitely look forward to your build!

 

[WhiteNoise]

Okay, so a friend in Japan found me an ibanez 7 string locking nut for super cheap, but it is top mounted. Is there anyway to modify it into being rear mounted?

 

[c7spheres]

1.- I looked into it, custom colors probably impossible, but it might be doable with cans, I'll probably cut a piece of mdf or something in the shape of a guitar and practice a bit with it. Worst case I'll go with a solid color which should be doable.
2.- I thought it might be a floyd nut, any way to know for sure? Only 2 issues that I see is that, from what I found, floyd never made bottom mounted 7 string locking nuts. It will try measuring it soon, if it is 15", then it should be a floyd one in theory? Also I'll try to get the parts for the fine tuner. About point 4, I was made aware of it, I put it up there in the mods. Im glad it is not a downgrade in quality tho.
5.- I'll look for the original parts, anywhere else besides ibanezrules? Those prices are pretty hefty nowadays.
8.- My tech would be able to do the radius + re fret work but I would be kinda expensive probably, maybe 1/2 or 1/3 of what I paid for the guitar. Honestly, If the nut is not the right one, I'll try to look for another Ibanez 7 string nut that fits the radius, and just get my tech modify the guitar for a top mounted nut.

- I can't say 100% but I think all Floyd nuts have an "R" number on them, probably on the bottom. Also the pressure pads look exactly like that one with the ripple in the middle as Ibby nuts don't, plus Floyd pads don't fit on Ibby nuts because they're to big, so you can't even put a normal Floyd pad on there. - As far as rear mounting there is a way to mod it to make it fit if the holes line up but you'd need a tap and die set to thread those holes, which is risky too because it may not align if not done well. There's also the option of filling the holes in teh neck and using the top mout nut as normal, but again it's risky, as it has to be done well or won't align proper.

 

[odibrom]

I do know that the neck that it is a 7620, any ways to know if the body is? About the floyds, I know how they work but normally im not the one setting them up, to be fair it was a while after it got setup that I started playing it, so it might be temperature shift or old strings. I will give it a try anyways. I'll probably try to get rid of the rings, not sure how the wood is below them because the cavity was probably expanded so I'll have to check once I get into it

Remove the neck and look at the body's neck pocket, but I wouldn't my hopes high since the guitar has been refinished...

In order to remove the neck, do the following:
1 - make sure you have the nut locked
2 - make a dive bomb and lock the trem in that position. I use a 9V battery for this task.
3 - Since the strings get way too slack with the dive bomb, it's save to unscrew the neck, take a look at the pocket and re-screw the neck back in.
4 - Remove the battery freeing the the trem for full floating action.
5 - Be amazed with the guitar still in tune... supposedly and if it was correctly set up.

 

[lost_horizon]

Do you have more info into how to mod the nut for the radius? Also on how to get the paint job right.

I definitely look forward to your build!

I actually just got my guitar out and the paintjob is alright! I think it will just be a touchup.

Modding the radius, now I have had a look at a number of nuts and the radius is higher on the bass side than the treble side. Also when people have compound radius fretboards they have to have the lower most radius at the nut.

Here is a Gotoh diagram (a top mount but still):

To get to a 430mm nut you would do one of two things depending on your first fret clearance:

Too flatten out the radius you would lower the intermediary ones in red bit by bit (these are in tenths of a milimetre) with a dremel or fine file and providing when you started treble and bass were right you would be fine.

If your treble and bass clearance was not right but the middle was you could shim the outer lock nut surface to bring them in a line.


Remember these changes are in tenths of a millimetre so only a tiny shim is needed. I'm not seeing it be such a massive issue for you now, it will affect intonation but once set you should be fine. I have changed multiple nuts on multiple guitars and once sorted notice little difference.

When people refret these do they stay to the same radius or re-radius them?

I like your paint job alot!

Paint is all about Prep.

Sand off the existing finish.

Prime, Sand off again.

With your main colour Spray 1 coat, wet sand, spray another coat wet sand.

Couple of spray coats of Poly sealer.

You should be able to do it all with a single can of each plus sandpaper, so you'll probably do it for $50-60 total. You could even do a dry run with a piece of pine. When you are spraying a sparkle finish wood species really doesn't matter. Your primer is the thing that will affect your end paint colour, white vs black. White it says whatever on the can, white will be a lighter red to almost pink, black will be darker and a more blood colour.




This is just an example but red pearl