Headless 6-string with Overlord R-Trem copy

Tom30cal2

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I was here a few years ago but lost my account info.
Anyway, i left off building a headless 6 string that had built in Chorus & Reverb (PT2399) Distortion, Artec BCU and a 5W amp. I did complete build but was so frustrated by the whole thing that I never "finished" the project and ended up selling it for $150. Granted, I had no where near 150 in it, my hours were untold and I'm sure I lost my shirt.
Learning from that experience, my second headless is considerably more professional. I ended up enlisting a pro Luthier for the thru neck. Instead of building all the electronics into the tiny "broomstick" body, I opted for a Hardshell violin case in which I had much more room. I'm running a 35W RMS Stereo amp through two 6" waterproof full range marine speakers. The amp features 2 independent guitar inputs although FX are only on ch. one. Bluetooth is also included cuz, EVERYBODY asked me about Bluetooth. Chorus, Reverb, Distortion and EQ are powered via LM7809 Regulator circuit. I built the whole thing so it can be powered by anywhere from 5-27VDC. I currently use a cordless drill 20Vmax battery for the main power source. At full volume, i can get around 4 hours playtime. The case was modified to support either a closed or open back design. External speaker cabinet Jack included. The entire thing was then lined with foam and covered in blue velvet. I need a way to creat the faceplate. I'm using one from an old Bluetooth speaker and it's mislabeled. I considered using Waterslide decal or a plotter to cut vinyl lettering but application would be a real pain. Also, on the front of the case, where the plastic has been cut away and the plywood covered in grill cloth, I want to trim the edge of the plastic. Any suggestions are GREATLY APPRECIATED.
I see a fair amount of discussion regarding the "Overlords of Music" trem system. It's basically a direct copy of the Steinberger R-Trem and works quite well with some modifications. Firstly, the entire thing needs taken apart. Polish all the friction bearing surfaces to remove the black paint and use a light machine oil to reduce wear. The trem lock is a bit loose, so I popped out the original splined pin and replaced with a screw/washer. Now, it locks without and up & down movement between the attached bridge & floating knife trem. A small bit of metal was also added to the lock bar to more positively lock it in the proper position. Fine Tuning is touchy if the trem's not locked, but as with nearly all floating systems, it SHOULD be locked down to tune. Set up is pretty much the same as setting up an old Jackson with the Floyd trem. The Trem spring could be beefed up a bit to force the bridge to sit parallel to the body, but it's not so high that it causes issues.
I've had this guitar now for four years, it goes to the beech, the forest and the desert. It rides in the saddlebag on my motorcycle, without the case. In general, it's a travel guitar and I treat it accordingly. The "Overlord" bridge has held up perfectly and caused me no problems.
So, when it comes to the "Overlord of Music" trem that is supplied in many kits on the market, so long as you take some time polishing, fitting & replacing a few screws, the pot-metal beast can be a very useable tool.
Hopefully the pic resolution is decent.
 

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