Gotoh GE1996T-7 Drop-In For Lo Pro Edge 7?

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

L

I'd guess it's an M3, do you have something to check the thread?

Lowe’s…

 

[Crungy]

L

Lowe’s…

I'd check that and then you can order from anywhere online or pick something up at Lowes.... You should be able to track down a 35 mm for not a lot of money.

 

[nightsprinter]

mcmaster.com is awesome for random hardware

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Thank you for the link.
Setup and intonated.
2 observations:
A) a .056 is still too flappy on this guitar. Works fine on my Carvin, but the Ibby hates the loose flappy buzziness. Will give a .058 or even a .060 a try.
B) The intonation screws are still too long for the Ibby cavity on the E, A, and Low B strings. Gonna have to get some shorter ones if I want to pull sharp at all, which I do.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

I set up as a hard tail first, truss rod adjust, action, intonation, with the trem block and no springs, just string tension. Get the profile of the base plate close to dead flat perpendicular to the body face. Now it sits for a few days to let the neck “settle” under tension at pitch, From there, I’ll add the springs and tighten to the point that the coins release, then adjust the claw screws to final pitch. Takes all of that “back and forth” out of the process.

 

[7StringsRule]

a .056 is still too flappy on this guitar. Works fine on my Carvin, but the Ibby hates the loose flappy buzziness. Will give a .058 or even a .060 a try.

I use .62 Ernie Ball cobalt strings for drop A or A standard. Works great with little pitch drift. The RG7620 only has a 25.5 scale length so heavier strings are needed to avoid pitch drift. I’ve tried .58 Elixirs those still drifted too much in A but might hold up if you’re in B. .64 NYXLs also drifted more, the cobalts are just better in this regard but they do feel very different and are harder to pick and the heavier gauge will make trem movement harder.

 

[Dumple Stilzkin]

@TonyFlyingSquirrel @7StringsRule did anyone whose done the swap use the Gotoh lock nut, or the lo pro nut?

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

@TonyFlyingSquirrel @7StringsRule did anyone whose done the swap use the Gotoh lock nut, or the lo pro nut?

I only purchased the bridge and am still using the 30 year old original Gotoh locking nut on my TFS6. On my Ibanez in my avatar, I have a Tusq nut and Hipshot locking tuners.

 

[mrvomit]

@TonyFlyingSquirrel @7StringsRule did anyone whose done the swap use the Gotoh lock nut, or the lo pro nut?

it' s quite important to use the nut FOR YOUR FRETBOARD RADIUS . Thous , original nuts / same -radius -aftermarket nuts must be used ( and this is also the reason gotoh bridge does not come with locking nut anymore , along cutting costs off course ) . You can shim individual saddles at bridge ( to correct radius) but you can't adjust a nut's radius to match .

 

[Grindspine]

Body cavity

The Gotoh bridges that I installed on my Washburn DIme 333 and on my ESP E-II Arrow 7 both had the longer block lock screws. I replaced them with stock Floyd style block lock screws and the whole bridge fits comfortably in both guitars' trem routes.

 

[Emperoff]

The Gotoh bridges that I installed on my Washburn DIme 333 and on my ESP E-II Arrow 7 both had the longer block lock screws. I replaced them with stock Floyd style block lock screws and the whole bridge fits comfortably in both guitars' trem routes.

Did you have to do any kind of routing in the Arrow? And did you replace the studs? I might want to replace mine as well.

 

[Grindspine]

The Gotoh 1996-7 dropped right into the Arrow 7 with the only issue being the longer string-lock screws. Note you'll also have to measure to get the right block length since Gotoh trems have different block lengths.

I have not replaced the posts with locking ones yet. I got some Wilkinson (by Gotoh) locking studs and inserts that measure to the same size as the Floyd ones. I am just waiting 'til I actually need a string change to do that work. It may be a while since I restrung with coated D'addario XTs though.