Aristides Guitars

ExileMetal

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Has anyone here tried to change your order after the Yellow sheet? I tried to inquire about this and I didn't get a response. I was hoping to go from a custom paint to a raw build (my build date wasn't until August or so)
 

Dudley

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All this talk of bad inlays and I can't believe no-one has mentioned the dickfish yet...

That being said, the Harry Potter stuff is just as cringey.
 

Dudley

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Has anyone here tried to change your order after the Yellow sheet? I tried to inquire about this and I didn't get a response. I was hoping to go from a custom paint to a raw build (my build date wasn't until August or so)

It is possible to change specs, for a fee, but it depends on exactly what you’re planning to change and when you ask as well.

If you started your build in August I think you’re probably too late… they dye the raw models early on in the process so unless you were after the light grey, which I believe is just the ‘natural’ colour, it probably can’t be done.

Definitely chase them up some more to find out for sure though.
 

bigswifty

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I'm not getting much traction on the Aristides Facebook group ATM for this:

Anybody have any info on intonation adjustments for the H/0 series? Hardtail bridge..
Threw on a new set of strings the other day and everything is sharp at the 12th fret. So it needs some love. I'd like to get this dialed in perfect.
Looking at the pieces.. it could be two things. But honestly, as I look at the hardware and ponder which of the two options it might be - I just get pissed off at how poor the design of these bridge pieces are.

First of all, you need to cut the ball ends of the strings to restring it. Like, you remove the natural anchoring feature of the string itself, to then make it less secure in its slot. I don't get it. Apparently Aristides has an update coming soon that undoes this design choice and uses the ball end.
Now - from a top down view there is a screw/washer holding the hardware down. They seem to be on rails, so in order to adjust intonation, do you need to loosen the string, pull it aside, loosen the entire hardware piece, slide it forward or backwards, lock it back down, retune and hope that you've made a perfect adjustment?

On the other hand, at the bridge pickup side of the bridge pieces is another hex screw, on the side of the saddle. But I don't think this is anything to do with intonation. Unfortunately, there seems to be no available resources online for this subject. Pretty disappointing.

Anybody have any advice?
 
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Soya

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It adjusts the same as a lot of other headless bridge hardware, the screw going from the tuner barrel to the base plate.
 

Kyle Jordan

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(Couldn't decide which version to go with, so I chose both.)
 

Ben Pinkus

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Not sure if I want an 070s or another h/07 for my second build. Deep down I want a cool sparkle or a marble finish but again don't know if I can justify it
 

jephjacques

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I haven't played a h/07 but my 070sr is hands-down my favorite 7 string. Maybe someday I'll have the patience to actually order one with a wild finish instead of pouncing on dealer stock.
 

SalsaWood

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Wish they didn't want 600$ to just not do inays. I'd really like to get a H07.
 

SnowfaLL

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Wish they didn't want 600$ to just not do inays. I'd really like to get a H07.
Well basically the A is their "logo" for the H/0 series - it'd be like asking Kiesel or Gibson to make a guitar without a logo. I think thats why they want a bit more for that..

Just do it in like black or purple epoxy on a black richlite board, so its still there but stealthy.. Probably much cheaper.
 

Kyle Jordan

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Unless something has drastically changed, the cost for getting dots + “A” or just the “A” were both no charge when I ordered my H/08 in December. They consider that the logo, so you’re stuck with it no matter what on the H/0. Best you can do is get the A in black on the black richlite board.

The no inlay option was also no up charge on the 0X0 when I last looked around the same time.
 
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