Any love for Floyd Rose Bridges?

TornAnus

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Saddles look fine to me, I wouldnt change the saddle positioning although as you said I'd run D, B & high E strings with the saddle screw in the other position, closer to the bridge. You're downtuned a reasonable amount so makes sense that the saddles are farther toward the bridge than it came stock

Also, please post a full body shot of that thing! Looks awesome
I had a luthier out of New Mexico build this for me. He did everything except assembly, wiring, hardware and setup. I bought a Floyd 1984 because it was what was available at the time. I like it except for the screw in arm, if it gets in too tight its a real bitch to get out.
 

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Captain Shoggoth

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I had a luthier out of New Mexico build this for me. He did everything except assembly, wiring, hardware and setup. I bought a Floyd 1984 because it was what was available at the time. I like it except for the screw in arm, if it gets in too tight its a real bitch to get out.

85 and the brass fine tuners are an awesome combo. I'd go with the modern Floyd push-in arm as a replacement. The Red Bishop Magik Arm also feels great but the mechanism is overengineered to the point of super-fragility.
 

TornAnus

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85 and the brass fine tuners are an awesome combo. I'd go with the modern Floyd push-in arm as a replacement. The Red Bishop Magik Arm also feels great but the mechanism is overengineered to the point of super-fragility.
Thanks for noticing that brass and gold coordination haha. Yeah I'm definitely putting the push in arm on this guitar.
 

jco5055

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Here’s maybe a basic question: I’m aware that a FR should have a flatter radius than the actual radius of the fretboard, like how a 12-16” guiter should have a bridge that measures closer to like 20”. So when a Floyd rose has a radius pre-set at 12”, I know Sophia is 14, etc…is the bridge actually 12/14 etc, or is it at “the bridge radius needed for a fretboard radius of 12/14 etc”?
 

trem licking

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85 and the brass fine tuners are an awesome combo. I'd go with the modern Floyd push-in arm as a replacement. The Red Bishop Magik Arm also feels great but the mechanism is overengineered to the point of super-fragility.
+1 on the red bishop. I also recommend replacing the standard arm with a "mighty mite" floyd arm and keeping the stock collar (mighty mite arm has a thick plastic collar that works much better at staying screwed on tight than the traditional bar/metal washer mechanism, the bar is quite inexpensive as well). I had a floyd branded push in arm for a short while and the delrin cracked and split and it loosened quite a bit with each use
 

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Here’s maybe a basic question: I’m aware that a FR should have a flatter radius than the actual radius of the fretboard, like how a 12-16” guiter should have a bridge that measures closer to like 20”. So when a Floyd rose has a radius pre-set at 12”, I know Sophia is 14, etc…is the bridge actually 12/14 etc, or is it at “the bridge radius needed for a fretboard radius of 12/14 etc”?
You need to shim the outer saddles to help closer match the FB radius, if you don't you'll end up with 1 of the following..... if you have good action buzz free inner string but the outer strings will choke/buzz......or outer strings will have good action but inner (a,d,g,b strings) will have a higher than wanted action.

i think the only factory Pre-shimmed Floyd equiped guitar i evet bought was/is a squire Showmaster with a Ping unit (just being refinished in Neo Pink) crazy that we still see almost £1k guitars aren't correctly shimmed.....
 

jco5055

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You need to shim the outer saddles to help closer match the FB radius, if you don't you'll end up with 1 of the following..... if you have good action buzz free inner string but the outer strings will choke/buzz......or outer strings will have good action but inner (a,d,g,b strings) will have a higher than wanted action.

i think the only factory Pre-shimmed Floyd equiped guitar i evet bought was/is a squire Showmaster with a Ping unit (just being refinished in Neo Pink) crazy that we still see almost £1k guitars aren't correctly shimmed.....
So then since I know an OFR comes pre-shimmed at 12”, is that for a 10” radius (which makes sense considering the locking nut is 10”), or is it for a 12”? Sorry I get the explanation you gave I just don’t know how that applies to the “default” shimmed settings
 

MFB

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Curious for anyone who's got an older Jackson with the JT580, how they are? It seems like they're hit or miss, which is to be expected with a licensed tremolo, just not sure if it would be worth expecting to immediately swap it out for an OFR/Gotoh or if it's worth doing through a setup first?
 

73647k

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Curious for anyone who's got an older Jackson with the JT580, how they are? It seems like they're hit or miss, which is to be expected with a licensed tremolo, just not sure if it would be worth expecting to immediately swap it out for an OFR/Gotoh or if it's worth doing through a setup first?
They’re fine, been playing on an old ‘90’s Kelly Professional with one and it holds up well. I prefer the 590 for some reason
 
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MFB

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They’re fine, been playing on an old ‘90’s Kelly Professional with one and it holds up well. I prefer the 590 for some reason

Did some reading up on it, sounds like the 590 is a Schaller made tremolo just stamped with the Jackson logo on it so I imagine that's why it feels better than the 580, even if the other holds up well enough.
 

eaeolian

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They’re fine, been playing on an old ‘90’s Kelly Professional with one and it holds up well. I prefer the 590 for some reason
Because the 590 is a Schaller? The Takeguchi (JT-580LP) isn't terrible if the studs are set right, but not in the same league as the JT-590.
 

MFB

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Because the 590 is a Schaller? The Takeguchi (JT-580LP) isn't terrible if the studs are set right, but not in the same league as the JT-590.

Was the 590 on specific models to look out for, or was it line specific for certain years?

If I can find a model with one I'd like to save myself the trouble, but if it's a crapshoot then I'll take what I can get.
 

Naxxpipe

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How would one go about to identify the Jackson trems? I have a 2001 King V with a Jackson stamped floyd, and would like to know what it is.
I have no pic at hand right now, but may snap one later.
 

MaxOfMetal

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How would one go about to identify the Jackson trems? I have a 2001 King V with a Jackson stamped floyd, and would like to know what it is.
I have no pic at hand right now, but may snap one later.

Just Google it. It should be fairly apparent which is which. The baseplates are different shapes.
 

eaeolian

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Was the 590 on specific models to look out for, or was it line specific for certain years?

If I can find a model with one I'd like to save myself the trouble, but if it's a crapshoot then I'll take what I can get.
The 590 was on the Professional "Pro" models (the ones with Ebony boards) from 1991-1994. They're on the "XL" models from 1991-1993, and those switch to 580LPs after that. They're on pretty much everything from Japan ("toothpaste" Charvels included) from 1989-1991, except the *really* low-end models that only have the single-locking Schaller and the Charvettes that were made in Japan, which have a totally crap locking trem that looks like it cost about $5. :lol:

The catalog archive is also quite helpful.
 
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