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Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by Walterson, Mar 5, 2013.
Soya... that.... is a really freaking good idea.....
That seems WAY more useful than the spindle sander i'm using.
Well the downside is the radius can't be changed on the end, so I'll still have to use a smaller spindle on a drill press to get inside of a super strat style body.
I was going to post a bunch of pictures last night but I guess I can't embed pictures from Google Photos like I thought.
Anyway, I finally finished my desk and set it up in my office last night. Seems pretty damned sturdy and I like it! Minimalist, mostly nice looking, has a footrest, even uses machine screws and T nuts like all the best guitars. I need to find a more reliable way to do lap joints for this middle X's, or maybe just not try to route them out when it's "warm" in December (-5 C) and take smaller passes and test fit before finishing.
Could make them separate pieces and use biscuits and glue to join them also.
I used dowels to join the outsides and the X's together. I thought about biscuits but didn't have access to a tool.
Has anybody tried driving them out from the top with a drift pin?
Scored this piece of Buckeye off eBay. Could not resist. About half way through my bass project, but planning out the next couple of guitars (6 string NT for sure, another 7, 5 string MS bass, and possibly an 8). I'll see if I can get a good picture of all the pieces together to figure out what to use where.
Have this BE and Amboyna Burl tops, Ash and Black Limba bodies, assorted fret boards (PH, PME x2, Ziricote, Gabon Ebony, Macassar Ebony), plus PH and Wenge in long sections for NT designs. Also a Cocobolo top that was going to be used on the bass but decided against it.
Not a guitar but it's for a tool that will help me finish building my CNC machine, which will help me finish the guitars I've already started.
DIY floating/breakaway torch holder for a friend's CNC plasma table:
I'm gonna leave them in there and make brass trim pieces to cover them up.
Got the wood burned body back. Now I just have to finish my cnc machine so I can make all of the brass trim pieces to finish it out.
I picked up some wood yesterday with my brother to make a couple of canoe paddles for my dad's 50th birthday this coming April.
We're gonna do Cherry/Padauk/Soft Maple/Padauk/Cherry laminates so I think it should look real nice. This will be my first time working with Padauk. After my local supplier machined it for us and I carried it to and from my car I already noticed my hands were itchy. Definitely going to have to get a respirator and wear sleeves and gloves when working with it.
Been working pretty intensely the last 9 days.
It's almost ready: My take on a B2 with some adaptions to my liking (recessed jack, no scarf, belly cut, smooth arm rest etc.). NGD thread coming in the next days.
Planing a body blank is great when the bit comes loose in the middle and ruins the whole piece. Really regretting attempting this project.
I feel you. While I was routing the side thickness profile of a neck the bearing came loose and the bit chewed away more than anticipated.
Loose bit's usually happen to me when I am trying to take too much material with a single pass. too much material in a single pass causes vibration --> vibration loosens the collet --> bit digs into workpiece. sucks man...
doesn't look like your piece is completely ruined.... just need to add a top... perhaps a nice chambered design with a maple top?
That happened to me doing a truss rod channel once. So much for that neck.
This is an opportunity...
If I quit after anything bad happened while building I would quit almost every day.
Misaligned joints are opportunities to learn inlays, bindings are an opportunity to ‘hide’ a bad joint Between that maple top and mahogany body...
I’ve started with an ash body over 2 inches thickthat I intended to plane flat on one side and use for a solid ash body.
When all was said and done, it’s a 1/4” ash top on a mahogany body.
Mistakes happen. Don’t let them stop you. Keep plugging away.
Ideally yes, but I am not capable of gluing a top over an arm contour yet. Also it'll be much cheaper to go back to my local supplier and get another piece of ash cut off so i will just start over.
all you really need for gluing over a contour is to cut some kerfs into the wood to be able to bend it.