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Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by Walterson, Mar 5, 2013.
Very cool,Ive been thinking about getting a desktop CNC self build kit for a few weeks now and had looked at the Shapeoko and X-Carve kits but being in the UK i seemed id be either paying stupid shipping price + import duty/taxes or paying £=$ rates to a UK re-sellers pocket ....
Last night i found the eShapeoko packages from Amber Spyglass Ltd seems like an upgraded Shapeoko2
and spec-ing out everything it looks like it will run about half of an imported kit (£600 vs £1200+) going to do a lot of reading to bring myself upto speed
Anyhows back to the purpose of this (very inspiring) tread....
Been a while (4+years id say) since i did any scratch building from lumber slabs but i got the ich a few months back and had a dig around in my scraps box for unused guitar sized bits,lot of sawdust later this is almost done.
Also decided to do a rebuild on my last (nonfinished) build to rescue it from the scrap pile
Still lots to do but ive re-found the joy of building stuff
Nice headless guitars, what hardware are you using on the fanned build? Also, how are you getting along with the flat neck backside)? I also don't use C/D-shapes, but my middle surface of the neck profile is slanted towards the bass side which plays a lot better for me.
Super Strat is a comin'!
Hardware on the multi scale 7 (27-25.5") is technologyformusicians.com (old build thread is HERE started way back in 2012!) some things i like about them (and somethings i don't) Ola was OOS when i started this build and TFM were the only source of headless single bridges i could find (ABM were also nowhere to be found at the time)
Flat back necks are feeling great thx i used to play a mates Chapman stick (badly) years ago and always fancied trying the flat fb/neck on a guitar,the 6 string still has sharp edges (not sure if they'll stay) but on the MS 7 ive rounded them over a little,i did try a few bass/treble chase paths ala ola in some pine test blanks but for me i found my thumb was out of place if i tried any holdsworth type wide chord spans,the wide open flat stright down the center works well for me atm but im sure i'll try a few other things once i get around to buying and setting up one of the the eShapeoko kits.
Progress is moving along on my 3rd build, decided to cut in to one of 2 beautiful 1-piece Sipo Mahogany bodies I had been saving until I knew what I was doing.
A CNC router will save some aches and pains in your back.
I got bored and decided to prototype a headless design I've been kicking around for a bit. still some tweaking to do to the hardware placement/contour and laminate ideas but the shape is comfortable/ should be very ergonomic.
Scored a super cool piece of Rosewood that my neighbor brought over today. He's been collecting some cool pieces of wood and decided to let this one go. It's about 1.5" thick, 48" long, and 6" wide. The very top has a crack on the back side that takes out about 1" from the back and about 6" down. Still pretty epic piece, flatsawn though.
2 necks (neckthrough)? Fret boards? I'm still figuring out how to use it most efficiently while keeping that top figuring. Splitting down the middle and making a whole bunch of fret boards seems to make the most sense at the moment. Open to any suggesions...
if it's flatsawn then I say use it for a fretboard.
Or flip it on its side and use for neck laminates, if that gets it very close to quartersawn
some woods just don't have awesome grains when quartersawn, like zebrano. I have a feeling that rosewood isn't going to be nearly as visually interesting in a neck as it would be flat sawn.
So it's been a hectic month or two and I was stalled on that Evertune install but I finally got it done. Some points that may be useful; the portion of the body just in front of the bridge inside the guitar took numerous adjustments. I'd shave some material off, think I had enough clearance according to the instructions, put it all back together and set up only to find I still lacked the full range of motion required for the certification demonstration videos they want to see. I finally got it but damn is that portion thin. Also be sure not to take that bevel all the way to the edge so as not to blow your clean routing line. I also had to shim the hold down bracket and elongate the back route a hair to get everything to sit where it needed.
Most of you probably know how these things work. A large triangle shaped bracket that a spring hooks to on one end and to a carriage on the other which is part of the saddle assembly that has a threaded rod that adjusts the carriage which tightens or loosens the spring. The end of the saddle assembly has a forward stop, a rear stop, and can float between them. One of these saddle assemblies was mounted incorrectly at the factory so I was having trouble getting the fine tuner to give me the full range of tuning it was intended to. I pulled it out of the bridge and noticed the very upper portion of the saddle was sitting lower in its bracket than the others. It wasn't pivoting in the machined notch it was intended to, rather a point a mm or so higher. So's what I did was I pulled that spring off, put the saddle what where it shoulda been, put that spring back on there, and it worked yea. I'll get around to refinishing the top at some point but for now this is a demo for my customers to see if they'd like an Evertune.
Can't believe I've deliberated about buying a planer thicknesser for so long. Flattened 3 necks in about 10 mins! The last one I did by hand took about 3 hours
That neck is drool-worthy!
I too have been thinking about getting one of those thickness planers.
I have never used one and have allways wondered what keeps the board or whatever your planing from getting shot right out the back of the machine?
If it is too much to anawer this question, then I understand.
Follow-up to this one
Most, if not all, such machines have some form of kickback guard.
Yeah the thicknessing mode has a set of one-way teeth which grip the wood. There is nothing on the planing mode to stop kickback, but I'm only taking 0.25mm off with each pass so it never happens.
I think that's the Clark one I was looking at, J. Defo on my to do list.
I just bought their BS350 bandsaw - best woodworking purchase yet and highly recommended. £600 new but performs like saws double the price.
Liking the flamed maple around that wenge - pure strength next to flamed beauty.