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Discussion in 'Sevenstring Guitars' started by Dredg, Aug 27, 2017.
I'll ask perry. That seems like a weird thing not to update on the page.
And that's a typical example of a massed produced bridge - cheap looking, possibly wobbly (as it draws from the classic fender saddle design) and most likely injected pot metal
you need to quit dickriding strandberg's bridge. I've had 3 strandbergs and the hipshot headless hardware is far better. Easier to turn the knobs, easier to grip, better tuning stability (I don't have to tune my vaders nearly as frequently as I did with the strandbergs). T4M, ABM and some other companies make better versions of single bridges as well imo. Hipshot usually mills their bridges and saddles out of steel or brass. They're not die cast like a TOM.
I've never had any issue with Strandberg tuning stability. They've been as stable as anything I've owned (that didn't have a Floyd). I'll co-sign them being a little hard to turn though - not where I had a problem with it, but not ideal.
I also agree that it's 100x better looking than the Hipshot. I know that shouldn't matter, but then again, I've never bought something with a Wilkinson either because I thought they were ugly.
Me neither, if anything it's the most stable non-Floyd bridge I've had to date. And the easiest to adjust too (as far as trems go). I agree the tuning pegs are pretty hard to turn though, that's 100% true.
Yeah I didn't think it was a big deal until I got my 2nd and 3rd strandberg, and then it became really difficult to tune up with the strings I was using. It was the same gauges I have on my vaders, in the same tuning but it was going out of tune more, and was a lot harder to turn the knobs due to the way they knurl them. It could easily be fixed by doing a crosshatch knurl imo.
the only difference (like branger said) is that they removed the top faceplate from the bridge that's on the vaders/hipshot's website. It functions exactly the same. Personally I think it looks cleaner with the faceplate, but I'll have no problem using one without it.
I barely need to turn them because my Strandberg stays in tune like no other guitar I've had. I rather have them hard turning then wobbly with the potential to create buzz and other vibration related noise (which all bridges with spring mounted saddles are destined to do at some point). I don't dickride anything, it's just a far better made bridge that will outlive most stuff out there, cnc billet machined, anodized aluminium and stainless steel saddles. Maybe because I come from manufacturing/machining background I appreciate this more than the average person. Sue me
The gripes about Strandberg tuners being hard to turn are overplayed: Mine took no longer to break in than any of my new Steinbergers did. You can lube the threads, PEOPLE.
Lube is always a good solution........
Lubed threads or not, the fact that the tuning barrel is only slightly larger in diameter than the actual thread gives you very poor leverage.
I tried Mera and ABM as well and both use a lot smaller threading which results in easier operation.
However, while tuning Strandberg tuners takes more effort, it's possible to tune from high to low without having to go over the sweet pot and tighten again. Especially with Mera hardware this isn't really possible.
I bought mine from The Music Zoo, excellent return policy - no probs.
doesn't a turning tool come with it?
I didn't like the Strandberg tuner/bridge design much. Adjusting action was a massive chore, the tuners on the one I had were so stiff I needed to use an allen wrench to turn them and the finish seemed like it would chip easily.
You adjust the action by turning the saddle clockwise or anticlockwise, what massive chore? Besides you don't fiddle with the action, you set it and any changes that can happen are neck related, so you adjust the trussrod. Anodizing is a finish that is created in the metal, not on top, so it does not chip (might wear through abrasion in some time).
Why are people defending it? People owned them and didn't like something about it. Stiff tuners was something I heard about, and I've had to deal with too. It's not the end of the world, but it's not ideal either. The guitar doesn't need its ass kissed.
For the record, adjusting tuning should be a simple two second thing. You shouldn't have to exert yourself or use a tool to do it. Every other guitar manages that, so it's not out of the realm of reason to expect that.
And people who own them and actually like them can't say anything? I think it's good to know several opinions, especially if this is a PROS and CONS topic, no? What is a massive chore, or an issue for one person might not be a problem for someone else. The only "tool" i need sometimes to turn the tuners if my hands are sweaty is my t-shirt.
They can say something. They just don't have to word it like people are imagining things.
It really just comes off as a circle jerk, which this forum is known for doing a lot. Dick riding BKP, or fanned frets, or whatever the hip new thing is. Meanwhile Kiesel sets their saddles a little higher than people are used to seeing and people lose their shit saying the Aries is unplayable trash.
Say what you will about the hipshot hardware, but it's reliably built and is in general simpler to operate. You don't have to take the string out of the saddle to adjust the action or intonation. You can be fine with the strandbergs downsides and put up with them if it suits you, but that doesn't mean it doesn't have those downsides. Changing the intonation alone is obnoxious enough that it's worth mentioning. Same with a floyd. If anyone says "changing tunings with a floyd is just as easy as changing tunings on a normal guitar," they're lying. The same way you'd be lying (or at the very least disingenuous) if you said:
You have to loosen the string to the point where you slip it out from the saddle, raise/lower the saddle, put it back on the saddle, tune it up to pitch and then measure. Normal saddles involve, tune down, raise/lower saddle, tune to pitch, then measure. Hell, if you're LOWERING the action, you don't even need to loosen the string first. Either way it's a good deal quicker than having to fidget with the string.
Among other things, like intonation, it's impossible to say the methods are on par with other options. You just have to decide if it's worth it to you... Not pretend like they're not legitimate issues/concerns. Enough people, who even still like their strandbergs and aren't just dick riding, have brought up that tuning is stiffer than on other headless guitars. It's fine to be okay with it, but it's not fine to pretend like there's nothing more to it than other options.
TL;DR, The way some people talk about Strandbergs sounds like EVERY 5 star review of EVERY cheap guitar ever, and THAT'S what irritates me. "Great guitar, no flaws or quirks whatsoever. There is absolutely NOTHING that might turn you off about this guitar if you buy it. You'll buy it and nothing will strike you as out of the ordinary or worse than other guitars with similar features." It's better to listen to people who say "It's a good guitar, but..." than to listen to somebody who gushes over it 100%.
Perhaps it's just a pet peeve of mine. I usually just keep my mouth shut about it, but this thread has been a constant bout of "I had a strandberg, and this is a thing I didn't like about it" followed by "That's not true. My tuners aren't stiff/you don't need to adjust action/intonation often/it's just a turn of a screw."
If I hadn't owned the vaders I would still complain about the tuning instability on my specific OS8s, and how the tuners are hard to turn. I'm not a small guy (6'0, 230 lbs with huge hands) and even for me, they're hard to turn at times. I tried lubing them up and it helped a bit, but like I said earlier in the thread, putting a crosshatched knurl would give a lot better grip/ make them easier to tune. the strandberg tuners just aren't as good as other brands like T4M or hipshot imo. I've tested all 3 brands of headless bridges and in an apples to apples comparison, the strandberg are found lacking imo.
I will not say they are perfect, of course they could turn easier. I'm just more interested in the materials the bridge is made of and the durability of those materials and finishes over time than the fact that the tuners turn a bit hard. I did not investigate but are there any specs for materials / finishes on T4M or Hipshot?
And everything is opinion based. I did not say it's not true the tuners turn hard. When someone says the action adjustment is a chore then in my opinion he might just be lazy, but other people reading it might think it's actually hard/impossible to do. And it is a fact that 95% of the time you don't change your string action once you set it, so what's this, searching for problems that don't exist? Come on guys...
Speaking as someone who has owned and reviewed the current and previous iterations of the Strandberg (trem) bridge design, I agree with the complaints. The current hardware addresses some of the common complaints against the previous design, and the next revision will improve further.
That said, though the complaints are valid, they're not dealbreakers: Those of us who kept a guitar have opted to either deal with the design or pay someone at a local store to. Different isn't bad, but it can always be better.
Cubix, find something in there to disagree with.